Saturday, March 10, 2012

Galapagos Day 7: Dragon Hill, Whale Bay & Eden

I awoke to sunrise and sea lions and turtles playing around the boat. We had hoped to fit in a pre-breakfast swim since snorkeling wasn't on the agenda until the afternoon, but the morning proved to be cooler than usual thanks to the clouds so we didn't mind missing a swimming opportunity as it meant we had a rare break from the heat.

 

Alfonso took us ashore for a walk around Dragon Hill. This part of Santa

Cruz Island is known for its particularly large land iguanas. We managed to spot several big iguanas but none that were approaching two meters. This is iguana mating season and it's the male's job to attract females, so we came upon countless red and yellow male iguanas lying in the middle of the tourist paths. This is how they advertise themselves! The bright colors signify they are ready to mate (many of the females, by contrast, are not yet ready so they are black in color) and parking themselves in the center of the cleared path (instead of in the dense bushes) ensures they will be spotted by any passing female. Unfortunately for them, the only females drawn to the iguanas this morning were humans, and we made more than a few jokes about men who exhibit the same behaviors in trying to attract a mate.

 

We saw our first flamingos at a lagoon. They ate beautiful creatures...until they start to eat! They swish their beaks around in the water to mash up the food, which just makes them look ridiculous!

 

Everyone loved seeing an immature Bahamas duck!

 

Since the walk took less time than expected, the captain said we could stay put for a little while and snorkel. More fish, sharks, sea lions, and rays! Alfonso had previously mentioned a starfish that looks like a chocolate chip cookie called, fittingly, the chocolate chip starfish. We spotted a few today and they looked delicious! Just like a big, freshly baked, soft cookie with a generous helping of chocolate chips carefully arranged in straight rows. Chocolate chip starfish aside, I think my time in the Galapagos has reaffirmed my vegetarianism (not that it's ever been in any danger in the past 18ish years). Societies arbitrarily decide which animals to love and which animals to eat. Every animal I've seen here has been magnificent in its own way and I really can't imagine taking a bite out of a sea lion or a moorish idol.

 

After lunch we walked around Whale Bay with the goal of finding Giant land tortoises. I wasn't very optimistic: the afternoon is typically when they sleep under thick cover and the clouds I had appreciated in the morning were now starting to rain. Despite these obstacles, Alfonso found two of them! They really are massive, solid creatures.

 

By the time we left Whale Bay, the sun had reemerged and we went snorkeling for the last time in the Galapagos around Eden Island, a suiting name for a tropical paradise.

 

The rains returned so we spent a few hours cooped up in the dining room instead of lounging on the sun deck. After dinner, the chef brought out a huge cake for the guests since it was the final night on the Flamingo seven of the eight passengers, six of us who had spent the last eight days together. I'm sure it's standard practice, but it was still very thoughtful and sweet. Being stuck in the dining room with slightly choppy waters had diminished my appetite but I found room for cake!

 

We anchored where our trip began, in the harbor town of Puerto Ayora. Most of the crew eagerly headed ashore to see their families and the passengers did the same, though with the slightly less noble intention of finding a bar. I was wiped out from the navigation so I just managed to keep my eyes open at the bar before leaving the group to return to the Flamingo. The sun deck was still quite wet from the rain but the cushions weren't, so I spent my last night curled up on a dry bench.

 

Today's animals:

Galapagos spider

Turtles

Sea lions

Blue footed boobies

Bahamas duck (mature & immature)

Finches

Marine iguanas

Land iguanas

Galapagos fly catcher, aka large bill fly catcher

Wimpler

Galapagos mockingbird

Yellow warbler

Flamingos

Fish

Rays

Chocolate chip starfish

Giant land tortoises

Sally light foot crabs

Smooth billed Anis

Pelicans

 

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