Wednesday, March 7, 2012

Day 3: Espanola island to San Cristobal

Today was an early start as we had a long hike planned on Espanola Island. Here we realized how much things can change so quickly in the Galapagos. Alfonso took us to an otherwise empty spot covered in low green bushes and said, "According to the book, this is the largest blue footed booby colony." Not a bird in sight! This happened several times, Alfonso telling us what the guide books say only to show us that animals have moved on to a new location or changed their behavior. Clearly, the guide books can't keep up with the animals. But we managed to see plenty of wildlife, including a rare fur seal, Nazca boobies with chicks (one of whom bit someone from the group!), a Galapagos hawk, iguanas displaying their mating colors, and plenty of cuddly looking seals. Pictured below, in order: fur seal, Nazca booby with chick, seagull (a rare nocturnal hunter), blue footed booby, crab, iguanas, and sea lions.

 

After we downed our snack, we went snorkeling. I always try to make friends with the guides since it's not only the Canadian thing to do, but they'll also make sure you see loads of interesting things if they know you'll appreciate it. Fausto was the guide who came snorkeling with us and since we had talked a few times already and he knew I had a waterproof camera, he told me to stick with him and he'd try to point things out. We saw an enormously long eel, but it was too fast for my camera!

 

Our last excursion for the day was to Garner Beach, which I think should be renamed Sea Lion Beach! As we approached the beach in the dinghy, the beach seemed to be absolutely covered in huge rocks but--you guessed it--they were really sea lions! There were hundreds of sea lions along the beach, frolicking in the water, crying out for their mothers, playing in the sand, and, mostly, sleeping. We passed the afternoon swimming in turquoise water warm enough to cook pasta and taking photos of the sea lions as they steam rolled over each other, sneezed, and bellowed their terrible sounds. As cute as they are, they make some of the most disgusting sounds! They either sound like a drunk old man belching at a bar, like they're trying to cough up a lifetime supply of mucus, or like they're pretending to puke. I'll coo over an adorably pathetic pup with its big eyes and clumsy flippers, only for it to open its mouth and belch! Kind of ruins the atmosphere but no one's perfect!

 

It was a four hour ride to San Cristobal and most of us napped the time away on the sun deck. The seas weren't too bad but the waves were consistent enough to remind us we weren't on land.

 

The group headed into town for cold beers (cake for me!) before returning to the boat for the night. It's funny that after just 48 hours on the boat, the modest town seems like an urban Mecca! Guess I tend to adapt to my surroundings quicker than I had remembered.

 

As I write this, everyone has gone to bed and I am alone with the stars, a few lights from the town, and the sea lions...who are, of course, all coughing and belching!

 

Today's animals:

Fur seal

Sea lions

Iguanas

Lava lizard

Mocking bird

Seagulls

Frigate

Nazca boobies & chicks

Blue footed boobies

Galapagos hawk

Manta ray

Eel

Sea urchins

Fish

Crabs

 

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